I left Morocco on May 8th.
It's nice to be home, here in Seattle, where my family and friends are. But I left a part of me in Morocco. I was only there for four weeks; not a very long time. Long enough, however, to know that the experiences I had and the friends I made will always be with me.
I would urge anyone who might be thinking about doing what I did to really give it serious consideration. If you decide to give it a try, I can tell you that it will enrich your life greatly. You will come to realize, as I did, that this world is really not all that big, and the people you will meet are really not all that different.
Thanks again to everyone who supported me and followed me to Morocco. It was a fantastic adventure.
Dave
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Thursday, May 6, 2010
It's a bittersweet time
Tomorrow is my last day in Morocco.
When i decided to come here, I had little idea about Morocco or Moroccans. It was just a distant country on the northern tip of Africa, somewhat mysterious, with a touch of romanticism.
Now that I've been here for 4 weeks, it's still has that bit of mystery & romanticism about it, but i've learned so much more. It's a beautiful country full of wonder; from the ocean to the desert: Rabat, where the French colonial influence is still very evident; Marrakech, what a magical place is Marrakech; Fes, the City of Faith and Learning, with it's many styles of minarets and beautiful Mosques; and the mighty Sahara Desert, with its silent beauty, especially as the sun is setting.
But of all the sights and sounds of Morocco, it's the Moroccan people that are the most fantastic. There are no more friendly and helpful people anywhere in the world. Moreover, they are justifiably proud of their culture (and eager to tell you about it), fiercely proud of their Berber heritage, and unshakable in their faith in Islam.
I came here as a volunteer to teach English. Only time will tell if what I was able to teach is a help. I thought it would be easy! Pretty foolish thought. Thank God for the internet and the resource library here at the home-base. I think I've learned more about English grammar in the past 4 weeks than I ever knew before. It was tough, and it was sometimes embarrassing, but nonetheless it was an enriching experience that I will always believe was worthwhile. It has made an impact on my life and given me a deep sense of satisfaction and fulfillment.
However, the most important thing, the most wonderful thing, that I will bring home with me are the friends I've made: Ali, Mourad, Youness, Otman, Bilal, and Rachid. Young Moroccans full of life, laughter, ambition and faith. I will so miss going to the cafe with them after class, drinking VERY strong Moroccan coffee, talking and laughing (always much laughter) about anything and everything: politics, religion, globalization, the environment, music, cars, motorcycles, girls. And the arguments we've had!! These folks were not shy about challenging me on US Foreign Policy and our military campaigns in the middle east. They definitely have strong opinions. But when we leave the cafe we shake hands, touch our hearts and say "see you tomorrow, Inchalla" They have impacted my life in a way that I can never adequately express. May God, in His Greatness, look after them and grant them peace and happiness always. Inchalla.
I sincerely hope that at some point in each of your lives some of you find yourself where I am now. It's not an easy thing to leave ones comfort zone and go off to a different place, where the language and culture is so different. But if you do it, you will be surprised and pleased at how it changes and enriches your life forever. It has mine.
Thank you all for your support on this journey of mine. It might have a bit crazy, but oh so worth it.
I look forward to being home next week.
Inchalla
Dave
When i decided to come here, I had little idea about Morocco or Moroccans. It was just a distant country on the northern tip of Africa, somewhat mysterious, with a touch of romanticism.
Now that I've been here for 4 weeks, it's still has that bit of mystery & romanticism about it, but i've learned so much more. It's a beautiful country full of wonder; from the ocean to the desert: Rabat, where the French colonial influence is still very evident; Marrakech, what a magical place is Marrakech; Fes, the City of Faith and Learning, with it's many styles of minarets and beautiful Mosques; and the mighty Sahara Desert, with its silent beauty, especially as the sun is setting.
But of all the sights and sounds of Morocco, it's the Moroccan people that are the most fantastic. There are no more friendly and helpful people anywhere in the world. Moreover, they are justifiably proud of their culture (and eager to tell you about it), fiercely proud of their Berber heritage, and unshakable in their faith in Islam.
I came here as a volunteer to teach English. Only time will tell if what I was able to teach is a help. I thought it would be easy! Pretty foolish thought. Thank God for the internet and the resource library here at the home-base. I think I've learned more about English grammar in the past 4 weeks than I ever knew before. It was tough, and it was sometimes embarrassing, but nonetheless it was an enriching experience that I will always believe was worthwhile. It has made an impact on my life and given me a deep sense of satisfaction and fulfillment.
However, the most important thing, the most wonderful thing, that I will bring home with me are the friends I've made: Ali, Mourad, Youness, Otman, Bilal, and Rachid. Young Moroccans full of life, laughter, ambition and faith. I will so miss going to the cafe with them after class, drinking VERY strong Moroccan coffee, talking and laughing (always much laughter) about anything and everything: politics, religion, globalization, the environment, music, cars, motorcycles, girls. And the arguments we've had!! These folks were not shy about challenging me on US Foreign Policy and our military campaigns in the middle east. They definitely have strong opinions. But when we leave the cafe we shake hands, touch our hearts and say "see you tomorrow, Inchalla" They have impacted my life in a way that I can never adequately express. May God, in His Greatness, look after them and grant them peace and happiness always. Inchalla.
I sincerely hope that at some point in each of your lives some of you find yourself where I am now. It's not an easy thing to leave ones comfort zone and go off to a different place, where the language and culture is so different. But if you do it, you will be surprised and pleased at how it changes and enriches your life forever. It has mine.
Thank you all for your support on this journey of mine. It might have a bit crazy, but oh so worth it.
I look forward to being home next week.
Inchalla
Dave
Monday, May 3, 2010
The Marrakech Express
Went to Marrakech Friday. What a place! My description below doesn't begin to really describe what it is like. I'll post some photos tomorrow.
Marrakech has to be one of the most interesting cities in all the world. Unbelievable traffic; a huge public square in the middle of one of largest & most confusing Medinas in Morocco, full of food stalls, souks, donkeys, monkeys, motorbikes, snake (cobras) charmers, hustlers, musicians, and pickpockets. It's intimidating, it's amazing, and leaves you wanting to return again and again.
I went there with a group of 5 other volunteers. We went from Rabat to Marrakech by train - a 4 hour trip in a compartment where the AC worked only some of the time!
When we arrived we took a van provided by our Riad (guest house) to the Medina. Once there, we walked through a maze of narrow alleys and passage-ways filled with people, donkeys, cats, and motorbikes until we came to the entrance to the Riad. Open the door and you enter another world, one of calm tranquility. The Riad was about middle of the road in quality and cost; but the hospitality was priceless.
We dropped off our bags, had tea on the roof-top terrace, then ventured out to the Djemaa el Fina, a huge cobble-stoned square that at night is an amazing carnival of musicians, street entertainers, food stall hustlers (they literally grab you and try to pull you into their food tent) and hundreds of people. During the day, it's filled with snake charmers, souk merchants hawking their wares, more hustlers, pickpockets (you learn to walk around with your wallet in your front pocket and your hand on it at ALL times) and more people. It's not a place to go if you're looking for touristy peace and quiet! But it is THE PLACE to go if you want to experience the real Morocco.
After the dizzying experience of Marrakech, it was time to head to the sea-side town of Essaouria, to relax and decompress. Essaouira is a 3 hour bus ride SW of Marrakech. It's a laid-back town usually filled with tourists, and Moroccans escaping the heat of the interior for the weekend. But it's also probably the windiest town in all of Africa. Great if you like to wind-surf, not so great if you just want to sit on the beach. One of our group anchored their beach towel in the sand and went into the water. When she came back she couldn't find the towel - it was completely covered with sand.
The hotel we stayed at was in the middle of the Medina, but unlike Marrakech, it was very easy to find. The rooms are cheap (about $40/night) but surprisingly clean & comfortable. Although they don't supply towels, soap, or a shower curtain (you use the bathroom door). Luckily you can buy soap & a towel in the Medina for about $1.50 - if you're good at haggling. A skill we have all mastered (or we think we have anyway).
On Sunday we pile back onto the bus for the ride back to Marrakech and the train to Rabat. This time the AC works the whole way; but the train is delayed an hour. We finally make it to the home base at 12:00 AM, tired, but awed by the experience.
I'd do it again in a heart-beat.
Marrakech has to be one of the most interesting cities in all the world. Unbelievable traffic; a huge public square in the middle of one of largest & most confusing Medinas in Morocco, full of food stalls, souks, donkeys, monkeys, motorbikes, snake (cobras) charmers, hustlers, musicians, and pickpockets. It's intimidating, it's amazing, and leaves you wanting to return again and again.
I went there with a group of 5 other volunteers. We went from Rabat to Marrakech by train - a 4 hour trip in a compartment where the AC worked only some of the time!
When we arrived we took a van provided by our Riad (guest house) to the Medina. Once there, we walked through a maze of narrow alleys and passage-ways filled with people, donkeys, cats, and motorbikes until we came to the entrance to the Riad. Open the door and you enter another world, one of calm tranquility. The Riad was about middle of the road in quality and cost; but the hospitality was priceless.
We dropped off our bags, had tea on the roof-top terrace, then ventured out to the Djemaa el Fina, a huge cobble-stoned square that at night is an amazing carnival of musicians, street entertainers, food stall hustlers (they literally grab you and try to pull you into their food tent) and hundreds of people. During the day, it's filled with snake charmers, souk merchants hawking their wares, more hustlers, pickpockets (you learn to walk around with your wallet in your front pocket and your hand on it at ALL times) and more people. It's not a place to go if you're looking for touristy peace and quiet! But it is THE PLACE to go if you want to experience the real Morocco.
After the dizzying experience of Marrakech, it was time to head to the sea-side town of Essaouria, to relax and decompress. Essaouira is a 3 hour bus ride SW of Marrakech. It's a laid-back town usually filled with tourists, and Moroccans escaping the heat of the interior for the weekend. But it's also probably the windiest town in all of Africa. Great if you like to wind-surf, not so great if you just want to sit on the beach. One of our group anchored their beach towel in the sand and went into the water. When she came back she couldn't find the towel - it was completely covered with sand.
The hotel we stayed at was in the middle of the Medina, but unlike Marrakech, it was very easy to find. The rooms are cheap (about $40/night) but surprisingly clean & comfortable. Although they don't supply towels, soap, or a shower curtain (you use the bathroom door). Luckily you can buy soap & a towel in the Medina for about $1.50 - if you're good at haggling. A skill we have all mastered (or we think we have anyway).
On Sunday we pile back onto the bus for the ride back to Marrakech and the train to Rabat. This time the AC works the whole way; but the train is delayed an hour. We finally make it to the home base at 12:00 AM, tired, but awed by the experience.
I'd do it again in a heart-beat.
Monday, April 26, 2010
My Thrid week has started
It's hard to believe that two weeks have gone by.
Today is Tuesday of the third week. It's been very hot...93 yesterday and 95 today. Plus it's humid here, so it feels a lot hotter. It's unusual for it to be this hot in Rabat at this time of year.
Over the weekend 3 of my students to me on a walking tour of "downtown" Rabat and the Medina.
All the major cities in Morocco are divided into two areas: the Ville Nouvelle - "new city" and the Medina "old city". The Ville Nouvelle area of the city is a legacy from French colonial days. The French didn't want to mix the cultures and religions, so they built outside of the Medina. There are some good examples of French style architecture to see in Rabat, although apparently Casablanca is the place to go to really see French colonial architecture. Unfortunately, most of the building were constructed between 1912 - 1938 and many are now is disrepair. The Ville Nouvelle is also where you find the up-scale hotels and shops.
The Medina or "old town" is distinctly Moroccan in architecture and layout. This is where the typical Moroccan shops for everything from fresh fish to underwear . And it's where you find some great bargains on hand-made leather goods, silver jewelry, wood items, etc. Not only do people shop here, but many live inside the Medina as well. There are hotels in them too, but you would have to be a pretty adventurous soul to stay in one. At least the ones I've seen in the Rabat Medina. In Marrakech (and Fes too), however, there are many Riads - very old homes renovated and turned into guest houses - in the Medina that can be very luxurious.
The Medinas are always walled and are layed out like a big maze of walkways and narrow alley-ways. The Rabat Medina was constructed in the 17th Century. Medinas in Marrakech & Fes are much older and A LOT bigger. You can wander through the Rabat Medina and find your way out fairly easily. In the Marrakech Medina, you had better hire a guide, or you may never make it out!
The tour was great. I certainly learned a lot, and it was another great opportunity for me for cultural, religious and historical exchanges with them.
i will post photos soon.
Today is Tuesday of the third week. It's been very hot...93 yesterday and 95 today. Plus it's humid here, so it feels a lot hotter. It's unusual for it to be this hot in Rabat at this time of year.
Over the weekend 3 of my students to me on a walking tour of "downtown" Rabat and the Medina.
All the major cities in Morocco are divided into two areas: the Ville Nouvelle - "new city" and the Medina "old city". The Ville Nouvelle area of the city is a legacy from French colonial days. The French didn't want to mix the cultures and religions, so they built outside of the Medina. There are some good examples of French style architecture to see in Rabat, although apparently Casablanca is the place to go to really see French colonial architecture. Unfortunately, most of the building were constructed between 1912 - 1938 and many are now is disrepair. The Ville Nouvelle is also where you find the up-scale hotels and shops.
The Medina or "old town" is distinctly Moroccan in architecture and layout. This is where the typical Moroccan shops for everything from fresh fish to underwear . And it's where you find some great bargains on hand-made leather goods, silver jewelry, wood items, etc. Not only do people shop here, but many live inside the Medina as well. There are hotels in them too, but you would have to be a pretty adventurous soul to stay in one. At least the ones I've seen in the Rabat Medina. In Marrakech (and Fes too), however, there are many Riads - very old homes renovated and turned into guest houses - in the Medina that can be very luxurious.
The Medinas are always walled and are layed out like a big maze of walkways and narrow alley-ways. The Rabat Medina was constructed in the 17th Century. Medinas in Marrakech & Fes are much older and A LOT bigger. You can wander through the Rabat Medina and find your way out fairly easily. In the Marrakech Medina, you had better hire a guide, or you may never make it out!
The tour was great. I certainly learned a lot, and it was another great opportunity for me for cultural, religious and historical exchanges with them.
i will post photos soon.
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Rabat
Today is nhar essebt (Saturday).
I, along with one of my fellow volunteers, Reggie from Harrisburg, PA, met up with 3 of my students for a tour of Rabat. We had a great time and a bit of an adventure along the way!
First, Reggie and I flagged down a taxi to take us to the East-West Foundation where we were to meet up with our guides. We told the taxi driver where to take us and he seemed to understand. But it didn't take long to realize we weren't headed in the normal way we would get there. We thought perhaps he was taking a short cut or going a different way we weren't aware of. But after about 10 minutes we knew something was wrong. We tried to get him to stop and let us out but he kept telling us that we weren't there yet (or that was what we think he was saying). He spoke no English, only French and Moroccan, which made it tough to communicate. Reggie speaks a little French, but he couldn't get through to the driver. So we kept saying "safi, afeck" Moroccan for stop please. Finally he turned down a narrow street in a rather seedy neighborhood, drove for about 3 more blocks and announced "arrivee" - we have arrived. Then he charged us 17 dirhams ! Now 17 dirhams is about $2.00, so it's not like a grand rip-off. The normal cost for a taxi from our home-base to the foundation is 1o dirhams - 80 cents. But he dropped us off in the middle of we don't know where and in a very seedy part of town. We had to walk about 3 blocks to a main Avenue and flag down another taxi, and the walk was interesting. Almost all Moroccans are very friendly, but we weren't getting any friendly vibes from the people in this place. A couple times some teenagers just hanging out yelled something at us, and I don't think they were asking us how we were! Reggie is a big guy, about 6' 2" 200 Ibs and i'm no midget so no one approached us, but we didn't stop to do any window shopping on the way out that neighborhood.
We made it to a main Avenue without incident and flagged a cab which took us directly to the Institution -for 10 dirhams of course. So a taxi ride that usually cost 10 dirhams ended up costing us 27 dirhams, or about $3.25 plus we got to walk through a Moroccan "Hood".
Once we met up with our students we piled into a grand taxi for the ride to the Rabat Medina. A regular taxi is called a Petit taxi and in each city they are a certain color. In Rabat they are blue. Petit taxis by law can only carry 3 people max. A Grand taxi is always white in any city and by law can carry 6 people. Petit taxis are metered, but Grand taxis aren't. You tell him where you want to go and he'll tell you what he'll charge you for that distance. Bargaining on the final price ensues and finally a price is agreed on and off we go.
We got to the Medina and walked around for about an hour. Medina's are giant mazes filled shops. I picked up a couple things. Haggling for the final price is expected shopkeepers don't get offended by it at all. I was able to get good deals on both my purchases -with the help of my Moroccan friends. Reggie and I are going back tomorrow and will be able to finish my shopping!
After the Medina we must have walked almost all of Rabat Center. We finally grabbed a taxi to take us back to the home-base just in time for diner.
The house is quiet this evening. I think i'm the only volunteer in the house. There's a music concert in a park about 45 minute walk from here and they all went to listen to the music.
So It's nice to have the house to just me and Hamid, who is the night caretaker. Hamid is a tall guy, about 6" 7". He used to play Basketball for the Moroccan National Team. He he no longer plays, but he does referee games regularly. Hamid's very funny. He speaks no English, just Moroccan & French but he'll talk your ear off anyway and will give French lessons if you ask (or if you don't ask). He's a great guy and all the girls love him. And he loves the attention!
Well, that's about all to report for today.
A pleasant Sunday to everyone.
Dave
I, along with one of my fellow volunteers, Reggie from Harrisburg, PA, met up with 3 of my students for a tour of Rabat. We had a great time and a bit of an adventure along the way!
First, Reggie and I flagged down a taxi to take us to the East-West Foundation where we were to meet up with our guides. We told the taxi driver where to take us and he seemed to understand. But it didn't take long to realize we weren't headed in the normal way we would get there. We thought perhaps he was taking a short cut or going a different way we weren't aware of. But after about 10 minutes we knew something was wrong. We tried to get him to stop and let us out but he kept telling us that we weren't there yet (or that was what we think he was saying). He spoke no English, only French and Moroccan, which made it tough to communicate. Reggie speaks a little French, but he couldn't get through to the driver. So we kept saying "safi, afeck" Moroccan for stop please. Finally he turned down a narrow street in a rather seedy neighborhood, drove for about 3 more blocks and announced "arrivee" - we have arrived. Then he charged us 17 dirhams ! Now 17 dirhams is about $2.00, so it's not like a grand rip-off. The normal cost for a taxi from our home-base to the foundation is 1o dirhams - 80 cents. But he dropped us off in the middle of we don't know where and in a very seedy part of town. We had to walk about 3 blocks to a main Avenue and flag down another taxi, and the walk was interesting. Almost all Moroccans are very friendly, but we weren't getting any friendly vibes from the people in this place. A couple times some teenagers just hanging out yelled something at us, and I don't think they were asking us how we were! Reggie is a big guy, about 6' 2" 200 Ibs and i'm no midget so no one approached us, but we didn't stop to do any window shopping on the way out that neighborhood.
We made it to a main Avenue without incident and flagged a cab which took us directly to the Institution -for 10 dirhams of course. So a taxi ride that usually cost 10 dirhams ended up costing us 27 dirhams, or about $3.25 plus we got to walk through a Moroccan "Hood".
Once we met up with our students we piled into a grand taxi for the ride to the Rabat Medina. A regular taxi is called a Petit taxi and in each city they are a certain color. In Rabat they are blue. Petit taxis by law can only carry 3 people max. A Grand taxi is always white in any city and by law can carry 6 people. Petit taxis are metered, but Grand taxis aren't. You tell him where you want to go and he'll tell you what he'll charge you for that distance. Bargaining on the final price ensues and finally a price is agreed on and off we go.
We got to the Medina and walked around for about an hour. Medina's are giant mazes filled shops. I picked up a couple things. Haggling for the final price is expected shopkeepers don't get offended by it at all. I was able to get good deals on both my purchases -with the help of my Moroccan friends. Reggie and I are going back tomorrow and will be able to finish my shopping!
After the Medina we must have walked almost all of Rabat Center. We finally grabbed a taxi to take us back to the home-base just in time for diner.
The house is quiet this evening. I think i'm the only volunteer in the house. There's a music concert in a park about 45 minute walk from here and they all went to listen to the music.
So It's nice to have the house to just me and Hamid, who is the night caretaker. Hamid is a tall guy, about 6" 7". He used to play Basketball for the Moroccan National Team. He he no longer plays, but he does referee games regularly. Hamid's very funny. He speaks no English, just Moroccan & French but he'll talk your ear off anyway and will give French lessons if you ask (or if you don't ask). He's a great guy and all the girls love him. And he loves the attention!
Well, that's about all to report for today.
A pleasant Sunday to everyone.
Dave
Friday, April 23, 2010
The second weekend has arrived
Like the imaginative Blog titles?
Friday is here and the weekend is near.
I have conquered my cold (at least I hope I have). At any rate, I am feeling A LOT better than I did Wed & yesterday. Yesterday I was so out of it I don't think I could have told you where I was or what I was doing.
Tomorrow I meeting up with a couple of my students and going to an Environmental exhibit - as part of Earth Week - in Rabat, then to the Medina for some shopping!! They assure me they know where to get the best prices. We were supposed to do this last week but couldn't make it work.
Wednesday, before my cold laid me low, we went to view the ancient citadel of Chellah, which is the site of the Roman town of Sala Colonia, built around 40 AD, and a grand Mosque and Necropolis built between 1310 - 1334. The site was first settled, however, by Phoenicians, then Carthaginians. Sadly, any trace of these settlements have disappeared. It's a fascinating place.
Friday is here and the weekend is near.
I have conquered my cold (at least I hope I have). At any rate, I am feeling A LOT better than I did Wed & yesterday. Yesterday I was so out of it I don't think I could have told you where I was or what I was doing.
Tomorrow I meeting up with a couple of my students and going to an Environmental exhibit - as part of Earth Week - in Rabat, then to the Medina for some shopping!! They assure me they know where to get the best prices. We were supposed to do this last week but couldn't make it work.
Wednesday, before my cold laid me low, we went to view the ancient citadel of Chellah, which is the site of the Roman town of Sala Colonia, built around 40 AD, and a grand Mosque and Necropolis built between 1310 - 1334. The site was first settled, however, by Phoenicians, then Carthaginians. Sadly, any trace of these settlements have disappeared. It's a fascinating place.
Thursday, April 22, 2010
The second week is almost over
Salam Alaykum.
Time certainly does fly! It's almost the end of my second week here.
I apologize for not keeping up with my blog this week. The days go by so fast and we seem to be always busy doing something - usually planning the next day's English lesson. Moreover, I am one of only about 3 volunteers out of 27 that brought a computer with them, so the 3 of us are constantly being asked "can I borrow your computer?" After a couple days I just said, "hey, when I'm not using it have at it" Little did I realize that the favorite time for others to use it is between 7:00 & 10:00 PM our time, which is prime time for me to make Skype calls. But whadya gonna do?
My class continues to be an adventure and challenge. I'm learning as much about English grammar as my students! I teach the intermediate level students, who have a pretty good grasp of speaking English, but writing it is still a challenge. The mistake they make most often is putting the adjective after the noun e.g. "the car red" or "the tree green". In French - which most are fluent in- and Arabic this is common.
The average age of my students changes almost daily it seems. Last week it was around 22, this week it's about 17. However, the rumor going around is that next week I may be teaching even younger students, probably ages 10-15. Apparently the Institute where I work has developed a program for younger people who are either to poor to go to public school, or their parents keep them out of school and use them to beg for money in the Medina. Street kids are a big problem in Morocco, especially in the big cities where there are loads of tourist. Not so much in Rabat, but Casablanca is notorious for them working the tourists in the Medina. It's illegal, and if the kids are caught the parents are fined. If they agree to enroll the kids in school - any school - the fine is waived. So the Institute has developed a program for these kids. Of course the parents want the kids to learn English to help them with begging - tourists love young kids that can say "hi, how are you. Do you have a Dirham for me?'' But at least they will be learning something and off the streets for a little while. The other volunteer - Chris - who's been working with me is leaving this Saturday so I may get drafted to work with these kids. I'm not too keen on it but how can I say no?
I've also come down with a doozy of a cold. Not surprising really. Many of the volunteers work at an Orphanage and the kids there have all varying types of illnesses, colds being the most common. I think just about all of the volunteers who work there have been sick, and with 27 of us it's only a matter of time for the rest of us. At least my turn came early! Today after work I took about an hour nap then after lunch I slept for another 3 hours. Still don't feel great but the naps helped. I'll be hitting the rack early tonight.
Tomorrow I'll post some photos of some very old ruins we toured yesterday. It's a site where Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and Muslims all had settlements. It was a fascinating place to see.
Bye for now
Time certainly does fly! It's almost the end of my second week here.
I apologize for not keeping up with my blog this week. The days go by so fast and we seem to be always busy doing something - usually planning the next day's English lesson. Moreover, I am one of only about 3 volunteers out of 27 that brought a computer with them, so the 3 of us are constantly being asked "can I borrow your computer?" After a couple days I just said, "hey, when I'm not using it have at it" Little did I realize that the favorite time for others to use it is between 7:00 & 10:00 PM our time, which is prime time for me to make Skype calls. But whadya gonna do?
My class continues to be an adventure and challenge. I'm learning as much about English grammar as my students! I teach the intermediate level students, who have a pretty good grasp of speaking English, but writing it is still a challenge. The mistake they make most often is putting the adjective after the noun e.g. "the car red" or "the tree green". In French - which most are fluent in- and Arabic this is common.
The average age of my students changes almost daily it seems. Last week it was around 22, this week it's about 17. However, the rumor going around is that next week I may be teaching even younger students, probably ages 10-15. Apparently the Institute where I work has developed a program for younger people who are either to poor to go to public school, or their parents keep them out of school and use them to beg for money in the Medina. Street kids are a big problem in Morocco, especially in the big cities where there are loads of tourist. Not so much in Rabat, but Casablanca is notorious for them working the tourists in the Medina. It's illegal, and if the kids are caught the parents are fined. If they agree to enroll the kids in school - any school - the fine is waived. So the Institute has developed a program for these kids. Of course the parents want the kids to learn English to help them with begging - tourists love young kids that can say "hi, how are you. Do you have a Dirham for me?'' But at least they will be learning something and off the streets for a little while. The other volunteer - Chris - who's been working with me is leaving this Saturday so I may get drafted to work with these kids. I'm not too keen on it but how can I say no?
I've also come down with a doozy of a cold. Not surprising really. Many of the volunteers work at an Orphanage and the kids there have all varying types of illnesses, colds being the most common. I think just about all of the volunteers who work there have been sick, and with 27 of us it's only a matter of time for the rest of us. At least my turn came early! Today after work I took about an hour nap then after lunch I slept for another 3 hours. Still don't feel great but the naps helped. I'll be hitting the rack early tonight.
Tomorrow I'll post some photos of some very old ruins we toured yesterday. It's a site where Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and Muslims all had settlements. It was a fascinating place to see.
Bye for now
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
A ride to remember
Salam Alaykum Everyone,
This weekend i decided, at the last moment, to go with a group headed off to the Sahara Desert. The trip included a ride on a camel into the desert and camping overnight in an authentic Berber tent.
The drive from Rabat to the desert takes about 10 hours, then it's a 90 minute ride on a camel to the camp. When we got to the camp i literally had no feeling in my legs! Camels are great animals, but riding one is not my idea of a fun way to travel.
The drive over was fascinating, however. We actually travel from the sea to the mountains to high desert then the great desert itself. We pass through small villages that are hundreds of years old, and some of the villagers still live in the original stone homes built when the village was founded. Some have been renovated to a degree, perhaps with indoor plumbing, but many are the same as first built. No heat (they may have a fireplace, but if not they builkd a fire on the stone floor), no electricity and no indoor water or sewer. They get their water from a well and use an out-house. The women wash clothes in the river (if they're near one) or use the well water. But the homes have a simple beauty about them, with brightly painted doors and window shutters. And the villagers give you a friendly wave when you drive by as they go about their daily rituals.
Sleeping in the desert is a TRIP! The Berber guides we had made us dinner, then demonstrated authentic Berber drumming and singing. They are also adept at riddles, and were very amused that we couldn't figure them out.
There are no lights in the camp, just a fire, so finding your way to the tents without a flashlight is an experience. But I made it without walking into a palm tree or tripping over the tent!
Our beds consisted of a twin sized mattress on top of a rug on top of the sand and a heavy blanket. It gets cold in the desert but the blanket was warm so sleep came easy. Until about 3:00 am, when a donkey, who seemed to be just behind our tent if not in it, decided to tell us just what he thought. Moroccan donkeys bray like there's no tomorrow. Scares the crap out of you.
Then it's up at 5:00 am and back on the camel for our 90 minute trip back to the guide headquarters. A quick breakfast and into the van we stumble for our 10 hours drive back to Rabat. We do stop along the way to stretch for a couple minutes (but it's not enough). It was oh so nice to crawl into my bed when we finally got back. I have been stretching my back ever since. Some of the folks declared that they want to do the trip again. It's nice to be young!
I've posted some photos from the desert trip, but sadly, my camera battery ran out before i got to the Sahara so i couldn't get photos of the desert and camel. Fortunately others in the group were better prepared, and they are willing to share their photos so I'll post them as I get them.
This weekend i decided, at the last moment, to go with a group headed off to the Sahara Desert. The trip included a ride on a camel into the desert and camping overnight in an authentic Berber tent.
The drive from Rabat to the desert takes about 10 hours, then it's a 90 minute ride on a camel to the camp. When we got to the camp i literally had no feeling in my legs! Camels are great animals, but riding one is not my idea of a fun way to travel.
The drive over was fascinating, however. We actually travel from the sea to the mountains to high desert then the great desert itself. We pass through small villages that are hundreds of years old, and some of the villagers still live in the original stone homes built when the village was founded. Some have been renovated to a degree, perhaps with indoor plumbing, but many are the same as first built. No heat (they may have a fireplace, but if not they builkd a fire on the stone floor), no electricity and no indoor water or sewer. They get their water from a well and use an out-house. The women wash clothes in the river (if they're near one) or use the well water. But the homes have a simple beauty about them, with brightly painted doors and window shutters. And the villagers give you a friendly wave when you drive by as they go about their daily rituals.
Sleeping in the desert is a TRIP! The Berber guides we had made us dinner, then demonstrated authentic Berber drumming and singing. They are also adept at riddles, and were very amused that we couldn't figure them out.
There are no lights in the camp, just a fire, so finding your way to the tents without a flashlight is an experience. But I made it without walking into a palm tree or tripping over the tent!
Our beds consisted of a twin sized mattress on top of a rug on top of the sand and a heavy blanket. It gets cold in the desert but the blanket was warm so sleep came easy. Until about 3:00 am, when a donkey, who seemed to be just behind our tent if not in it, decided to tell us just what he thought. Moroccan donkeys bray like there's no tomorrow. Scares the crap out of you.
Then it's up at 5:00 am and back on the camel for our 90 minute trip back to the guide headquarters. A quick breakfast and into the van we stumble for our 10 hours drive back to Rabat. We do stop along the way to stretch for a couple minutes (but it's not enough). It was oh so nice to crawl into my bed when we finally got back. I have been stretching my back ever since. Some of the folks declared that they want to do the trip again. It's nice to be young!
I've posted some photos from the desert trip, but sadly, my camera battery ran out before i got to the Sahara so i couldn't get photos of the desert and camel. Fortunately others in the group were better prepared, and they are willing to share their photos so I'll post them as I get them.
Friday, April 16, 2010
The weekend is here
It's 11:45 and my first week of work is over. It's been an amazing experience so far. Morocco is a beautiful country. The people here are extremely friendly, eager to help you and show you around. I hope i have made as good an impression on them as they have on me.
The house we live in in an area called Hay Riad - which just signifies a neighborhood like West Seattle, Ballard, etc. Hay Riad is VERY upscale, however. This is the area of Rabat where most foreign diplomats live. The houses are very large, surrounded by walls and typically very ornate gates. There's a fairly new "shopping mall" about 1/2 block away so it's pretty easy for us to buy essentials and they have ATM's there as well. There's also a very trendy area about a mile away with upscale shops, restaurants, etc.
I'll give you an idea of what a typical day for me is:
Breakfast is at 7:00. usually we have coffee (very good), Juice (apple or orange) hard boiled eggs, yogurt and fresh french bread with butter & jam or cheese (outstanding!)
after breakfast we have about an hour to get ready to go to our respective work places. At 8:40 a bell is rung, which tells us it's time to head for the van to leave for work. The East/West Foundation is about 3 miles from the house.
Classes start at 9:00. but it's usual for students to get there late because most of them live a considerable distance from the foundation, and traffic in the area is atrocious. Usually we take a break about 9:45 and go sit outside for 10 minutes or so. At 10:30 my class is technically over. The van picks us up at 10:45 so I usually sit with any students that can stay a while and we talk. Or, if some have the time we will go across the street to the cafe and spend as long as they want. This where the discussions get really interesting! Sitting in the cafe and discussing issues is part of Moroccan culture, and it's not usual for folks to sit for 2-3 hours discussing a wide range of issues.
When I go to the cafe I usually take a taxi back to the home base. It cost about 80 cents for a 3 mile taxi ride and it's forbidden to tip (although the driver will take one if offered!).
1:00 is lunch. Usually it's a combination of what was leftover for the previous nights dinner, always fresh veggies (usually green beans w/red & yellow peppers or cauliflower or both), rice or potatoes or both, french bread, and orange slices. The oranges here are fantastic.
After lunch we have some kind of cultural exchange/class. This week they were about the country & history, and Moroccan Arabic lessons. Moroccan Arabic is very different from the Arabic spoken is the Middle East. In fact most Moroccans would not be able to talk with someone from say Saudi Arabia unless they spoke French or English. However, All Moroccans write only in Classical Arabic, which is the same everywhere.
4:00 is tea time. Tea is Moroccan mint tea. It's very good but very sweet. It's served in a glass, never a cup. With the tea we have some kind of pastry. God it's tough around here.
After tea you're on your own time until 7:00, when the dinner bell is rung. Breakfast, lunch and Tea can be eaten in the common area or out on the patio, but dinner is always eaten in the common area. No exceptions. We can go out for dinner if we want, but usually no one does. The food here is much better than any restaurant.
Dinner is usually veggies, potatoes, rice, chicken, lamb (or sheep), bread and some kind of fruit dessert.
After dinner (which usually ends about 8:00) is a good time to make skype calls back home. And there are always discussions or games (banana-gram is the most popular) going on in the common area.
Most folks head off to bed about 11:00 although some of the young ones will venture out to a wine bar or cafe. Curfew is 12:00 am.
That's a typical day for me. By the time i hit the rack (around 10:30 -11) i'm beat!
Almost time for lunch, then it's off to ride a camel in the desert!
Inchalla
The house we live in in an area called Hay Riad - which just signifies a neighborhood like West Seattle, Ballard, etc. Hay Riad is VERY upscale, however. This is the area of Rabat where most foreign diplomats live. The houses are very large, surrounded by walls and typically very ornate gates. There's a fairly new "shopping mall" about 1/2 block away so it's pretty easy for us to buy essentials and they have ATM's there as well. There's also a very trendy area about a mile away with upscale shops, restaurants, etc.
I'll give you an idea of what a typical day for me is:
Breakfast is at 7:00. usually we have coffee (very good), Juice (apple or orange) hard boiled eggs, yogurt and fresh french bread with butter & jam or cheese (outstanding!)
after breakfast we have about an hour to get ready to go to our respective work places. At 8:40 a bell is rung, which tells us it's time to head for the van to leave for work. The East/West Foundation is about 3 miles from the house.
Classes start at 9:00. but it's usual for students to get there late because most of them live a considerable distance from the foundation, and traffic in the area is atrocious. Usually we take a break about 9:45 and go sit outside for 10 minutes or so. At 10:30 my class is technically over. The van picks us up at 10:45 so I usually sit with any students that can stay a while and we talk. Or, if some have the time we will go across the street to the cafe and spend as long as they want. This where the discussions get really interesting! Sitting in the cafe and discussing issues is part of Moroccan culture, and it's not usual for folks to sit for 2-3 hours discussing a wide range of issues.
When I go to the cafe I usually take a taxi back to the home base. It cost about 80 cents for a 3 mile taxi ride and it's forbidden to tip (although the driver will take one if offered!).
1:00 is lunch. Usually it's a combination of what was leftover for the previous nights dinner, always fresh veggies (usually green beans w/red & yellow peppers or cauliflower or both), rice or potatoes or both, french bread, and orange slices. The oranges here are fantastic.
After lunch we have some kind of cultural exchange/class. This week they were about the country & history, and Moroccan Arabic lessons. Moroccan Arabic is very different from the Arabic spoken is the Middle East. In fact most Moroccans would not be able to talk with someone from say Saudi Arabia unless they spoke French or English. However, All Moroccans write only in Classical Arabic, which is the same everywhere.
4:00 is tea time. Tea is Moroccan mint tea. It's very good but very sweet. It's served in a glass, never a cup. With the tea we have some kind of pastry. God it's tough around here.
After tea you're on your own time until 7:00, when the dinner bell is rung. Breakfast, lunch and Tea can be eaten in the common area or out on the patio, but dinner is always eaten in the common area. No exceptions. We can go out for dinner if we want, but usually no one does. The food here is much better than any restaurant.
Dinner is usually veggies, potatoes, rice, chicken, lamb (or sheep), bread and some kind of fruit dessert.
After dinner (which usually ends about 8:00) is a good time to make skype calls back home. And there are always discussions or games (banana-gram is the most popular) going on in the common area.
Most folks head off to bed about 11:00 although some of the young ones will venture out to a wine bar or cafe. Curfew is 12:00 am.
That's a typical day for me. By the time i hit the rack (around 10:30 -11) i'm beat!
Almost time for lunch, then it's off to ride a camel in the desert!
Inchalla
Thursday, April 15, 2010
one week down
Salaamu Alaykum
Friday - It's been a week already, hard to believe.
This afternoon a group of us (12) are headed on a Sahara Desert Camel Trek. We ride a camel out into the desert and spend the night. Everyone who has done it says it's an amazing experience, and I'm really looking forward to it. I'm sure I'll be posting a lot of photos.
The weather here has been pretty wet the past couple days. We even had hail yesterday afternoon. Today, however, the sun is out and the sky is clear......
it looks like a great day in Morocco.
Inchallah
Friday - It's been a week already, hard to believe.
This afternoon a group of us (12) are headed on a Sahara Desert Camel Trek. We ride a camel out into the desert and spend the night. Everyone who has done it says it's an amazing experience, and I'm really looking forward to it. I'm sure I'll be posting a lot of photos.
The weather here has been pretty wet the past couple days. We even had hail yesterday afternoon. Today, however, the sun is out and the sky is clear......
it looks like a great day in Morocco.
Inchallah
On the road again
Hi all,
for those of you who tried to access my blog yesterday.....sorry. i apparently did something wrong and made it disappear.
so i had to start completely over. hopefully, i won't make the same mistake again!
for those of you who tried to access my blog yesterday.....sorry. i apparently did something wrong and made it disappear.
so i had to start completely over. hopefully, i won't make the same mistake again!
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
