My Friends

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Home

I left Morocco on May 8th.

It's nice to be home, here in Seattle, where my family and friends are. But I left a part of me in Morocco. I was only there for four weeks; not a very long time. Long enough, however, to know that the experiences I had and the friends I made will always be with me.

I would urge anyone who might be thinking about doing what I did to really give it serious consideration. If you decide to give it a try, I can tell you that it will enrich your life greatly. You will come to realize, as I did, that this world is really not all that big, and the people you will meet are really not all that different.

Thanks again to everyone who supported me and followed me to Morocco. It was a fantastic adventure.

Dave

Thursday, May 6, 2010

It's a bittersweet time

Tomorrow is my last day in Morocco.

When i decided to come here, I had little idea about Morocco or Moroccans. It was just a distant country on the northern tip of Africa, somewhat mysterious, with a touch of romanticism.

Now that I've been here for 4 weeks, it's still has that bit of mystery & romanticism about it, but i've learned so much more. It's a beautiful country full of wonder; from the ocean to the desert: Rabat, where the French colonial influence is still very evident; Marrakech, what a magical place is Marrakech; Fes, the City of Faith and Learning, with it's many styles of minarets and beautiful Mosques; and the mighty Sahara Desert, with its silent beauty, especially as the sun is setting.

But of all the sights and sounds of Morocco, it's the Moroccan people that are the most fantastic. There are no more friendly and helpful people anywhere in the world. Moreover, they are justifiably proud of their culture (and eager to tell you about it), fiercely proud of their Berber heritage, and unshakable in their faith in Islam.

I came here as a volunteer to teach English. Only time will tell if what I was able to teach is a help. I thought it would be easy! Pretty foolish thought. Thank God for the internet and the resource library here at the home-base. I think I've learned more about English grammar in the past 4 weeks than I ever knew before. It was tough, and it was sometimes embarrassing, but nonetheless it was an enriching experience that I will always believe was worthwhile. It has made an impact on my life and given me a deep sense of satisfaction and fulfillment.

However, the most important thing, the most wonderful thing, that I will bring home with me are the friends I've made: Ali, Mourad, Youness, Otman, Bilal, and Rachid. Young Moroccans full of life, laughter, ambition and faith. I will so miss going to the cafe with them after class, drinking VERY strong Moroccan coffee, talking and laughing (always much laughter) about anything and everything: politics, religion, globalization, the environment, music, cars, motorcycles, girls. And the arguments we've had!! These folks were not shy about challenging me on US Foreign Policy and our military campaigns in the middle east. They definitely have strong opinions. But when we leave the cafe we shake hands, touch our hearts and say "see you tomorrow, Inchalla" They have impacted my life in a way that I can never adequately express. May God, in His Greatness, look after them and grant them peace and happiness always. Inchalla.

I sincerely hope that at some point in each of your lives some of you find yourself where I am now. It's not an easy thing to leave ones comfort zone and go off to a different place, where the language and culture is so different. But if you do it, you will be surprised and pleased at how it changes and enriches your life forever. It has mine.

Thank you all for your support on this journey of mine. It might have a bit crazy, but oh so worth it.

I look forward to being home next week.

Inchalla

Dave

Monday, May 3, 2010

The Marrakech Express

Went to Marrakech Friday. What a place! My description below doesn't begin to really describe what it is like. I'll post some photos tomorrow.

Marrakech has to be one of the most interesting cities in all the world. Unbelievable traffic; a huge public square in the middle of one of largest & most confusing Medinas in Morocco, full of food stalls, souks, donkeys, monkeys, motorbikes, snake (cobras) charmers, hustlers, musicians, and pickpockets. It's intimidating, it's amazing, and leaves you wanting to return again and again.

I went there with a group of 5 other volunteers. We went from Rabat to Marrakech by train - a 4 hour trip in a compartment where the AC worked only some of the time!

When we arrived we took a van provided by our Riad (guest house) to the Medina. Once there, we walked through a maze of narrow alleys and passage-ways filled with people, donkeys, cats, and motorbikes until we came to the entrance to the Riad. Open the door and you enter another world, one of calm tranquility. The Riad was about middle of the road in quality and cost; but the hospitality was priceless.

We dropped off our bags, had tea on the roof-top terrace, then ventured out to the Djemaa el Fina, a huge cobble-stoned square that at night is an amazing carnival of musicians, street entertainers, food stall hustlers (they literally grab you and try to pull you into their food tent) and hundreds of people. During the day, it's filled with snake charmers, souk merchants hawking their wares, more hustlers, pickpockets (you learn to walk around with your wallet in your front pocket and your hand on it at ALL times) and more people. It's not a place to go if you're looking for touristy peace and quiet! But it is THE PLACE to go if you want to experience the real Morocco.

After the dizzying experience of Marrakech, it was time to head to the sea-side town of Essaouria, to relax and decompress. Essaouira is a 3 hour bus ride SW of Marrakech. It's a laid-back town usually filled with tourists, and Moroccans escaping the heat of the interior for the weekend. But it's also probably the windiest town in all of Africa. Great if you like to wind-surf, not so great if you just want to sit on the beach. One of our group anchored their beach towel in the sand and went into the water. When she came back she couldn't find the towel - it was completely covered with sand.

The hotel we stayed at was in the middle of the Medina, but unlike Marrakech, it was very easy to find. The rooms are cheap (about $40/night) but surprisingly clean & comfortable. Although they don't supply towels, soap, or a shower curtain (you use the bathroom door). Luckily you can buy soap & a towel in the Medina for about $1.50 - if you're good at haggling. A skill we have all mastered (or we think we have anyway).

On Sunday we pile back onto the bus for the ride back to Marrakech and the train to Rabat. This time the AC works the whole way; but the train is delayed an hour. We finally make it to the home base at 12:00 AM, tired, but awed by the experience.

I'd do it again in a heart-beat.

Monday, April 26, 2010

My Thrid week has started

It's hard to believe that two weeks have gone by.

Today is Tuesday of the third week. It's been very hot...93 yesterday and 95 today. Plus it's humid here, so it feels a lot hotter. It's unusual for it to be this hot in Rabat at this time of year.

Over the weekend 3 of my students to me on a walking tour of "downtown" Rabat and the Medina.

All the major cities in Morocco are divided into two areas: the Ville Nouvelle - "new city" and the Medina "old city". The Ville Nouvelle area of the city is a legacy from French colonial days. The French didn't want to mix the cultures and religions, so they built outside of the Medina. There are some good examples of French style architecture to see in Rabat, although apparently Casablanca is the place to go to really see French colonial architecture. Unfortunately, most of the building were constructed between 1912 - 1938 and many are now is disrepair. The Ville Nouvelle is also where you find the up-scale hotels and shops.

The Medina or "old town" is distinctly Moroccan in architecture and layout. This is where the typical Moroccan shops for everything from fresh fish to underwear . And it's where you find some great bargains on hand-made leather goods, silver jewelry, wood items, etc. Not only do people shop here, but many live inside the Medina as well. There are hotels in them too, but you would have to be a pretty adventurous soul to stay in one. At least the ones I've seen in the Rabat Medina. In Marrakech (and Fes too), however, there are many Riads - very old homes renovated and turned into guest houses - in the Medina that can be very luxurious.

The Medinas are always walled and are layed out like a big maze of walkways and narrow alley-ways. The Rabat Medina was constructed in the 17th Century. Medinas in Marrakech & Fes are much older and A LOT bigger. You can wander through the Rabat Medina and find your way out fairly easily. In the Marrakech Medina, you had better hire a guide, or you may never make it out!

The tour was great. I certainly learned a lot, and it was another great opportunity for me for cultural, religious and historical exchanges with them.

i will post photos soon.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Rabat

Today is nhar essebt (Saturday).

I, along with one of my fellow volunteers, Reggie from Harrisburg, PA, met up with 3 of my students for a tour of Rabat. We had a great time and a bit of an adventure along the way!

First, Reggie and I flagged down a taxi to take us to the East-West Foundation where we were to meet up with our guides. We told the taxi driver where to take us and he seemed to understand. But it didn't take long to realize we weren't headed in the normal way we would get there. We thought perhaps he was taking a short cut or going a different way we weren't aware of. But after about 10 minutes we knew something was wrong. We tried to get him to stop and let us out but he kept telling us that we weren't there yet (or that was what we think he was saying). He spoke no English, only French and Moroccan, which made it tough to communicate. Reggie speaks a little French, but he couldn't get through to the driver. So we kept saying "safi, afeck" Moroccan for stop please. Finally he turned down a narrow street in a rather seedy neighborhood, drove for about 3 more blocks and announced "arrivee" - we have arrived. Then he charged us 17 dirhams ! Now 17 dirhams is about $2.00, so it's not like a grand rip-off. The normal cost for a taxi from our home-base to the foundation is 1o dirhams - 80 cents. But he dropped us off in the middle of we don't know where and in a very seedy part of town. We had to walk about 3 blocks to a main Avenue and flag down another taxi, and the walk was interesting. Almost all Moroccans are very friendly, but we weren't getting any friendly vibes from the people in this place. A couple times some teenagers just hanging out yelled something at us, and I don't think they were asking us how we were! Reggie is a big guy, about 6' 2" 200 Ibs and i'm no midget so no one approached us, but we didn't stop to do any window shopping on the way out that neighborhood.

We made it to a main Avenue without incident and flagged a cab which took us directly to the Institution -for 10 dirhams of course. So a taxi ride that usually cost 10 dirhams ended up costing us 27 dirhams, or about $3.25 plus we got to walk through a Moroccan "Hood".

Once we met up with our students we piled into a grand taxi for the ride to the Rabat Medina. A regular taxi is called a Petit taxi and in each city they are a certain color. In Rabat they are blue. Petit taxis by law can only carry 3 people max. A Grand taxi is always white in any city and by law can carry 6 people. Petit taxis are metered, but Grand taxis aren't. You tell him where you want to go and he'll tell you what he'll charge you for that distance. Bargaining on the final price ensues and finally a price is agreed on and off we go.

We got to the Medina and walked around for about an hour. Medina's are giant mazes filled shops. I picked up a couple things. Haggling for the final price is expected shopkeepers don't get offended by it at all. I was able to get good deals on both my purchases -with the help of my Moroccan friends. Reggie and I are going back tomorrow and will be able to finish my shopping!

After the Medina we must have walked almost all of Rabat Center. We finally grabbed a taxi to take us back to the home-base just in time for diner.

The house is quiet this evening. I think i'm the only volunteer in the house. There's a music concert in a park about 45 minute walk from here and they all went to listen to the music.

So It's nice to have the house to just me and Hamid, who is the night caretaker. Hamid is a tall guy, about 6" 7". He used to play Basketball for the Moroccan National Team. He he no longer plays, but he does referee games regularly. Hamid's very funny. He speaks no English, just Moroccan & French but he'll talk your ear off anyway and will give French lessons if you ask (or if you don't ask). He's a great guy and all the girls love him. And he loves the attention!

Well, that's about all to report for today.

A pleasant Sunday to everyone.

Dave

Friday, April 23, 2010

The second weekend has arrived

Like the imaginative Blog titles?

Friday is here and the weekend is near.

I have conquered my cold (at least I hope I have). At any rate, I am feeling A LOT better than I did Wed & yesterday. Yesterday I was so out of it I don't think I could have told you where I was or what I was doing.

Tomorrow I meeting up with a couple of my students and going to an Environmental exhibit - as part of Earth Week - in Rabat, then to the Medina for some shopping!! They assure me they know where to get the best prices. We were supposed to do this last week but couldn't make it work.

Wednesday, before my cold laid me low, we went to view the ancient citadel of Chellah, which is the site of the Roman town of Sala Colonia, built around 40 AD, and a grand Mosque and Necropolis built between 1310 - 1334. The site was first settled, however, by Phoenicians, then Carthaginians. Sadly, any trace of these settlements have disappeared. It's a fascinating place.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

The second week is almost over

Salam Alaykum.

Time certainly does fly! It's almost the end of my second week here.

I apologize for not keeping up with my blog this week. The days go by so fast and we seem to be always busy doing something - usually planning the next day's English lesson. Moreover, I am one of only about 3 volunteers out of 27 that brought a computer with them, so the 3 of us are constantly being asked "can I borrow your computer?" After a couple days I just said, "hey, when I'm not using it have at it" Little did I realize that the favorite time for others to use it is between 7:00 & 10:00 PM our time, which is prime time for me to make Skype calls. But whadya gonna do?

My class continues to be an adventure and challenge. I'm learning as much about English grammar as my students! I teach the intermediate level students, who have a pretty good grasp of speaking English, but writing it is still a challenge. The mistake they make most often is putting the adjective after the noun e.g. "the car red" or "the tree green". In French - which most are fluent in- and Arabic this is common.

The average age of my students changes almost daily it seems. Last week it was around 22, this week it's about 17. However, the rumor going around is that next week I may be teaching even younger students, probably ages 10-15. Apparently the Institute where I work has developed a program for younger people who are either to poor to go to public school, or their parents keep them out of school and use them to beg for money in the Medina. Street kids are a big problem in Morocco, especially in the big cities where there are loads of tourist. Not so much in Rabat, but Casablanca is notorious for them working the tourists in the Medina. It's illegal, and if the kids are caught the parents are fined. If they agree to enroll the kids in school - any school - the fine is waived. So the Institute has developed a program for these kids. Of course the parents want the kids to learn English to help them with begging - tourists love young kids that can say "hi, how are you. Do you have a Dirham for me?'' But at least they will be learning something and off the streets for a little while. The other volunteer - Chris - who's been working with me is leaving this Saturday so I may get drafted to work with these kids. I'm not too keen on it but how can I say no?

I've also come down with a doozy of a cold. Not surprising really. Many of the volunteers work at an Orphanage and the kids there have all varying types of illnesses, colds being the most common. I think just about all of the volunteers who work there have been sick, and with 27 of us it's only a matter of time for the rest of us. At least my turn came early! Today after work I took about an hour nap then after lunch I slept for another 3 hours. Still don't feel great but the naps helped. I'll be hitting the rack early tonight.

Tomorrow I'll post some photos of some very old ruins we toured yesterday. It's a site where Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and Muslims all had settlements. It was a fascinating place to see.

Bye for now